Day 1: Hallo en welkom to Ghent . . .
Staying 2 nights at Hotel Harmony
Everyone on the tour made their own way to Hotel Harmony in the center of cobbled, gothic Ghent, and the tour officially kicked off that afternoon in the hotel lounge where we all gathered for orientation and to meet our tour guide, Ellen, and each other. We enjoyed complimentary cocktails as we introduced ourselves, shared previous travel stories, and learned more about what to expect over the next 11 days.
Hotel Harmony was surprisingly posh Look at my (solo) room! And the view from the front of the hotel!
. . . and hallo Ellen, our guide for the next 11 days
I don't know why, but I never got a real picture of Ellen. This is when she was telling us about a dam in Holland. |
Netherlands native Ellen Janzing welcomed us to Ghent and gave us an overview of what was in store for us on this trip. Ellen was better than I could have hoped for our tour guide: She is warm and friendly, practical and efficient. She provided us with a mix
of historical and anecdotal information for each destination, and was always ready to offer helpful tips and recommendations. And she frequently surprised us with special Belgian and Dutch treats (stroopwafel, anyone?) to sweeten the experience. :-D After our orientation meeting, we all grabbed our raincoats and
umbrellas and gathered in front of the hotel. Before setting off on a neighborhood walk, Ellen had us each choose a tour "buddy," someone to check in with periodically. It's a great way to make sure everyone remains accounted-for when we're out and about. |
Then Ellen took everyone's photo and later surprised us with printouts of everyone's names and
pictures, so that we could match names to faces and get to know each other faster. Then it was off
to explore beautiful, rainy Ghent!
pictures, so that we could match names to faces and get to know each other faster. Then it was off
to explore beautiful, rainy Ghent!
Dutch lesson #1: The first thing Ellen did was teach us the Dutch word for "bicycle": fiets (pronounced feets). The bicycle is the favorite mode of transport for the Dutch (even in Belgium), and since we would always be walking in a group, for the rest of the trip whenever one of us saw a bicyclist (or bicyclists!) approach, they were to call out "fiets!" to alert the others to move out of their way.
Ellen walked us through the area near the hotel, through the Groentenmarkt (our landmark for finding
our way back to the hotel), the Korenmarkt (where we admired the post office built in 1913 for the World's Fair), and across Sint-Michielsbrug (St. Michael's bridge) and down to the Korenlei (the quay) where we walked along the water's edge to a boat hire. We were treated to private tour of Ghent as viewed from the river Leie.
our way back to the hotel), the Korenmarkt (where we admired the post office built in 1913 for the World's Fair), and across Sint-Michielsbrug (St. Michael's bridge) and down to the Korenlei (the quay) where we walked along the water's edge to a boat hire. We were treated to private tour of Ghent as viewed from the river Leie.
Dutch lesson #2: Markt (pronounced marked) is Dutch for "market" and means a market square.
The names of the Markts date back to the Middle Ages. Groentenmarkt means "vegetable market,"
and Korenmarkt means "corn market." One of the largest squares in Ghent is the Vrijdagsmarkt ("Friday market"). Fresh food and other wares have been sold in Vrijdagsmarkt every Friday since 1199.
The names of the Markts date back to the Middle Ages. Groentenmarkt means "vegetable market,"
and Korenmarkt means "corn market." One of the largest squares in Ghent is the Vrijdagsmarkt ("Friday market"). Fresh food and other wares have been sold in Vrijdagsmarkt every Friday since 1199.
We enjoyed a relaxing 45-minute tour along the river, admiring the medieval buildings and passing under ornate bridges. One highlight pointed out by our riverboat guide was the Gravensteen ("castle
of the counts"), a medieval castle that became notable in recent history when, in November 1949,
dozens of students from the University of Ghent took over the Gravensteen to protest a new beer tax that increased the price of beer.
of the counts"), a medieval castle that became notable in recent history when, in November 1949,
dozens of students from the University of Ghent took over the Gravensteen to protest a new beer tax that increased the price of beer.
We ended our first day with a group dinner (one of many included with the tour!) at De Acht Zaligheden restaurant. In my excitement, I forgot to take a picture of the meal (argh!), but trust me, it was absolutely delicious. And then we strolled back to the hotel along the cobbles in the moonlight.
Day 2: Full day in Ghent
The next morning after breakfast, we gathered in front of the hotel to meet our local Ghent guide,
Mieke. Charismatic Mieke brought the history of Ghent alive for. We stopped in one of Ghent's largest squares, the Vrijdagsmarkt (Friday market), where Mieke taught us about the medieval guilds
(associations of artists or merchants) and the guildhalls that once ruled Ghent. The square is
dominated by a statue of wealthy wool merchant Jacob van Artevelde. In the 14th century, Jacob reversed the boycott of English wool imports during the Hundred Years’ War and helped revive the textile industry in Ghent. Jacob's statue points to England.
Mieke. Charismatic Mieke brought the history of Ghent alive for. We stopped in one of Ghent's largest squares, the Vrijdagsmarkt (Friday market), where Mieke taught us about the medieval guilds
(associations of artists or merchants) and the guildhalls that once ruled Ghent. The square is
dominated by a statue of wealthy wool merchant Jacob van Artevelde. In the 14th century, Jacob reversed the boycott of English wool imports during the Hundred Years’ War and helped revive the textile industry in Ghent. Jacob's statue points to England.
After admiring the Art Nouveau buildings of the socialist movement and the elaborate frescoes on many medieval homes, Mieke walked us out to the Museum of Industry, where we learned more about Ghent's historical textile trade and its role in the Industrial Revolution. We then zig-zagged our way back toward city center where we passed the Stadhuis (city hall) and the Belfry (bell tower) and ended up in Sint-Baafsplein (St. Bavo's square).
We were now in front of Sint-Baafskathedral (St. Bavo's Cathedral), named for Bavo, the patron saint
of Ghent. This gothic cathedral was where Holy Roman Emperor Charles V was baptized, and it houses the Ghent Altarpiece, also known as the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, a treasure of the Renaissance completed by Hubert and Jan van Eyck in 1432. The altarpiece is kept behind glass but we could still
get close enough to see the 15th-century brushwork. After Mieke ushered us inside the cathedral, our time with her was over, as we were now free to explore the cathedral at our own pace.
of Ghent. This gothic cathedral was where Holy Roman Emperor Charles V was baptized, and it houses the Ghent Altarpiece, also known as the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, a treasure of the Renaissance completed by Hubert and Jan van Eyck in 1432. The altarpiece is kept behind glass but we could still
get close enough to see the 15th-century brushwork. After Mieke ushered us inside the cathedral, our time with her was over, as we were now free to explore the cathedral at our own pace.
When we said good-bye to Mieke, we also said good-bye to Ellen for the day, as the rest of the day
was free for us to explore Ghent on our own. I joined several fellow tour members for lunch at the
nearby cafe Bier Central, where I enjoyed delicious Croque monsieur and a Gentse Strop beer. After
dining inside, a few of us moved outside to sit and sip and people-watch.
was free for us to explore Ghent on our own. I joined several fellow tour members for lunch at the
nearby cafe Bier Central, where I enjoyed delicious Croque monsieur and a Gentse Strop beer. After
dining inside, a few of us moved outside to sit and sip and people-watch.
Dutch lesson #3: The Ghent-favorite Strop beer gets its name from the Dutch word stroppendragers, which means "noose bearers." During our walk, Mieke had told us the story of the stroppendragers:
In 1540 the people of Ghent refused to pay additional war tax, and in retaliation Emperor Charles V
made the ringleaders march through Ghent with a noose around their necks to show they deserved
to go to the gallows. The noose became a badge of pride for the people of Ghent, and these days
lack-and-white toy nooses are a popular Ghent souvenir.
In 1540 the people of Ghent refused to pay additional war tax, and in retaliation Emperor Charles V
made the ringleaders march through Ghent with a noose around their necks to show they deserved
to go to the gallows. The noose became a badge of pride for the people of Ghent, and these days
lack-and-white toy nooses are a popular Ghent souvenir.
At Bier Central, enjoying the sunshine and, of course, the beer! :-D
After lunch, I took off on my own to wander around city center take in the sights and sounds. I paused and listened while some people play the piano in the Stadshal (city pavilion), an open-air event
space that Mieke referred to as the "sheep shack" due to its origins as a livestock house. I walked
across Sint-Michielsbrug (St. Michael's bridge) and past Sint-Michielskerk (St. Michael's church) and
got another look at the Gravensteen.
space that Mieke referred to as the "sheep shack" due to its origins as a livestock house. I walked
across Sint-Michielsbrug (St. Michael's bridge) and past Sint-Michielskerk (St. Michael's church) and
got another look at the Gravensteen.
I eventually wandered back in the direction of the hotel, stopping in Groentenmarkt for some late-afternoon refreshments. Earlier in the day, Ellen had introduced us to the cone-shaped gummy candies called cuberdons, which the locals call "noses" because they look similar
to a human nose. They are a Belgian specialty and quite popular in Ghent. The traditional flavor is raspberry, but I bought a small variety bag from a street vendor. I also treated myself to a chocolate waffle from Koffie 3,14 Thee. I took my treats across the square to cafe 't Galgenhuis. I asked the waiter to recommend a beer and he brought me a delicious Gentse Tripel. |
A pile of "noses" |
Finally, I ended my day with dinner at funky restaurant I stumbled upon called Balls & Glory. A ridiculous name, yes, but also a ridiculously delicious meal of pork meatballs and applesauce. :-D