Day 4: Full day exploring Bruges
Staying 3 nights at Hotel Adornes
Hotel Adornes, in the Sint-Anna Quarter of Bruges, is a lovely family-run hotel. It's easy walking distance to the Grote Markt (great market), Bruges' historic market square, but it's also tucked away
in a quiet, charming neighborhood.
in a quiet, charming neighborhood.
The view from my hotel room window!
"The Venice of the North"
Bruges is my favorite European city (not that I've visited many). My first visit to Bruges was (solo!) in March 2010, and it was very cold at the time. But despite my constantly frozen nose, I fell in love with the quiet canals, the cobbled streets, the welcoming pubs, the waffles (of course!), and the beer (of course!). The weather on this trip was not much better: very wet and blustery. But even so, I loved being back in Bruges. I discovered some new favorite spots and re-discovered some old favorites through fresh eyes.
We were greeted with a rainbow our first morning!
Molly fact: Most of my travel aspirations are inspired by the locations I see in movies. And
I actually fell in love with Bruges even before my first visit there in 2010 because of the 2008 black comedy In Bruges, about two Irish hitmen who are hide out in the medieval city. |
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Our first morning in Bruges, we met our local guide Danielle outside our hotel, and she walked us through the neighborhoods between the hotel and the Markt. We stopped first in Jan van Eycksplein, where Danielle pointed out the first family house in Bruges that was made of bricks (a big deal in the 12th century). Heading further into city center, we saw the site of a 13th-century bar that was the world's
first stock exchange. We reached Burg Square (aka the Burg), the administrative heart of the city. Originally a walled fortress, the Burg is dominated by Bruges 14th-century city hall, the largest city hall in Belgium. Unfortunately, we weren't able to go inside city hall because on Saturdays it hosts weddings and is closed for tours. There was even a wedding party out front as we passed by! So we walked through the arch the opulent 16th-century civil registry building toward the Vismarkt (fish market).
first stock exchange. We reached Burg Square (aka the Burg), the administrative heart of the city. Originally a walled fortress, the Burg is dominated by Bruges 14th-century city hall, the largest city hall in Belgium. Unfortunately, we weren't able to go inside city hall because on Saturdays it hosts weddings and is closed for tours. There was even a wedding party out front as we passed by! So we walked through the arch the opulent 16th-century civil registry building toward the Vismarkt (fish market).
We then strolled along the Dijver canal and ended up at the gothic Onze-Lieve-Vrouw Brugge
(Church of Our Lady Bruges). The church is home to Madonna and Child, sculpted in white marble
by Michelangelo around 1504. The sculpture was removed by the retreating Germans in 1944, and
it was discovered a year later in a salt mine in Austria, as depicted in the movieThe Monuments Men.
Our entrance fee was covered by our Bruges Museum pass, and explored the church with Danielle.
Just across from the church, Danielle also drew our attention to Saint John's Hospital, established
in the 12th century, now also a museum.
(Church of Our Lady Bruges). The church is home to Madonna and Child, sculpted in white marble
by Michelangelo around 1504. The sculpture was removed by the retreating Germans in 1944, and
it was discovered a year later in a salt mine in Austria, as depicted in the movieThe Monuments Men.
Our entrance fee was covered by our Bruges Museum pass, and explored the church with Danielle.
Just across from the church, Danielle also drew our attention to Saint John's Hospital, established
in the 12th century, now also a museum.
Our walking tour ended at Pralinette, a traditional Belgian chocolate shop. We said good-bye to
Danielle and headed to the back of the shop, where we were treated to a private candy-making demonstration by the owners, topped off with a chocolate tasting!
Danielle and headed to the back of the shop, where we were treated to a private candy-making demonstration by the owners, topped off with a chocolate tasting!
After the chocolate tasting (and buying!), we were free to spend the afternoon on our own. I popped next door to the House of Waffles for a sweet lunch: a Liège waffle with bananas, chocolate, and whipped cream (which I didn't take a picture of!!). As opposed to a rectangular Brussels waffle, the Liège waffle has rounded edges and is made with a thicker Brioche batter and clumps of sugar. Of course, it tastes amazing! I also enjoyed some do-it-yourself hot chocolate, which became a staple on this trip.
After lunch, I visited the narrow but cozy cafe de Garre, which I had visited on my trip in 2010 and is
one of those hidden-away gems recommended in Rick's Bruges guidebook. It's at the end of a
narrow alley, and the entrance to that alley is a blink-and-you miss it doorway off of Breidelstraat.
one of those hidden-away gems recommended in Rick's Bruges guidebook. It's at the end of a
narrow alley, and the entrance to that alley is a blink-and-you miss it doorway off of Breidelstraat.
Then, just a bit tipsy, I popped into the nearby shop La Belgique Gourmande to buy more "noses" and took a stroll around the Burg. While taking a selfie in front of city hall, I was surprised to hear the sound of bagpipes (!) and to my delight found a Scottish pipe band playing nearby! After enjoying them for a little while, I headed back to the Markt where I joined a large crowd watching some street performers.
There are so many lovely statues in Bruges, I just kept taking pictures of them!
That evening, we all met up again at the Bourgogne des Flandres city brewery where we were treated to a private tour and a tasting of authentic Flemish beer! Proost!
We were on our own for dinner that night, and after regrouping back at the hotel, I joined up with
some fellow travelers to walk to Van Eyck square and have dinner at Cafe de Schilder, a restaurant
Ellen had recommended. As usual, the food was delicious (cheese croquettes), but I forgot to take a picture! I went back in the morning to take another photo of the restaurant in the daylight.
some fellow travelers to walk to Van Eyck square and have dinner at Cafe de Schilder, a restaurant
Ellen had recommended. As usual, the food was delicious (cheese croquettes), but I forgot to take a picture! I went back in the morning to take another photo of the restaurant in the daylight.
Day 5: Full day exploring Bruges on my own!
The next morning we all ate breakfast together at the hotel, and then we had the full day to ourselves
to explore Bruges however we wanted. It was a Sunday, so I decided to start my day by walking through the empty Markt and down to Sint-Salvatorskathedraal (St. Saviour's Cathedral) to attend mass.
Much to my surprise, I met one of my group there! We both commented on the wonderful organ music.
to explore Bruges however we wanted. It was a Sunday, so I decided to start my day by walking through the empty Markt and down to Sint-Salvatorskathedraal (St. Saviour's Cathedral) to attend mass.
Much to my surprise, I met one of my group there! We both commented on the wonderful organ music.
The cathedral is south of the Markt and after I left, I decided to meander further south toward the romantic Wijngaardplein (Vineyard Square) and the Minnewater (Lake of Love). Wijngaardplein is where the horse-drawn carriage rides stop briefly, allowing the drivers to water and rest their horses.
It is also where the swans gather on the bank of the canal.
It is also where the swans gather on the bank of the canal.
Fun fact: The Lake of Love (Minnewater) was so named because people once believed that water nymphs (or minnen in Dutch) lived there.
Then I headed to Koningen Astridpark (Queen Astrid park), another spot I had fallen in love with on
my first trip in 2010. It's a very green, quiet space with a pond and a gazebo. It was even lovelier than
I remembered. I spent some time sitting in the shade, people-watching, and snacking on "noses." :-D
my first trip in 2010. It's a very green, quiet space with a pond and a gazebo. It was even lovelier than
I remembered. I spent some time sitting in the shade, people-watching, and snacking on "noses." :-D
After the park, I had a delicious lunch at The Novel Cafe complete with more DIY hot chocolate.
Then I headed across Nepomucenusbrug (Nepomucenus bridge) toward the Burg, stopping at
Chez Albert (right next to the sneaky entrance to de Garre), for dessert. I ordered a chocolate waffle
to go (Liege-style of course), and brought it to the Burg to people-watch while I relaxed and ate.
Then I headed across Nepomucenusbrug (Nepomucenus bridge) toward the Burg, stopping at
Chez Albert (right next to the sneaky entrance to de Garre), for dessert. I ordered a chocolate waffle
to go (Liege-style of course), and brought it to the Burg to people-watch while I relaxed and ate.
After my Burg break, I continued down Hoogstraat to browse a flea market, and then headed
back toward the Sint-Anna Quarter, stopping along the way to check out the Volksundmuseum
(folk museum), which was included in our Bruges museum pass. I also stopped at the nearby
Sint-Annakerk (St. Anne's church) before returning to the hotel.
back toward the Sint-Anna Quarter, stopping along the way to check out the Volksundmuseum
(folk museum), which was included in our Bruges museum pass. I also stopped at the nearby
Sint-Annakerk (St. Anne's church) before returning to the hotel.
For our last evening in Bruges, Ellen organized a happy hour on the hotel's back patio. We enjoyed wine, cheese, and chocolates while we chatted. After that, I joined up with some fellow tour members and the five of us braved the rain to walk a few blocks to 't Oud Handbogenhof for dinner. It's a cozy, friendly restaurant, and it was there that I finally had some scrumptious Flemish stew!