Day 9: Full day exploring Amsterdam
Staying 3 Nights at the Hotel Espresso
The Hotel Espresso was very much a city-center hotel, not as small and cozy as our previous hotels, but smack in the middle of things. From there, we were easily able to walk to the best parts of Amsterdam.
"Fiets!" The first thing we had to do in Amsterdam was get up to speed on the traffic . . . the bicycle traffic! It was a bit overwhelming at first: pedestrians, bicycles, cars, and trams each have their own
lane (in that order) in both directions, and even though it seems like everyone always has the right of way, the whole thing works like a chaotic ballet. And no one wears a helmet! Even little kids are out
there riding bikes in the busy intersections!
lane (in that order) in both directions, and even though it seems like everyone always has the right of way, the whole thing works like a chaotic ballet. And no one wears a helmet! Even little kids are out
there riding bikes in the busy intersections!
Fun fact: Amsterdam dredges up 17,000 bikes from the canals every year!
Once again we ate breakfast together at the hotel, and then we headed out to explore the city together. Hotel Espresso is near a beautiful 19th-century park called Vondelpark, which we strolled through on
our way to our first stop of the morning: the Anne Frank House.
our way to our first stop of the morning: the Anne Frank House.
The Anne Frank House is an unusual tourist spot. Obviously famous
and of historical importance, it nevertheless felt a bit surreal trodding through the quiet rooms, listening to the audio guide. I know for some people, the history really comes alive when they can be there and see actual artifacts first hand. But to me, it just felt like we were intruding in a space that should be quiet and sacred. No photos allowed inside in the house, and there was scaffolding on the outside of the building, so the only picture I took was of this lovely little statue of Anne around the corner from the house. |
At the end of the Anne Frank House tour, we re-gathered outside to meet our local guide. And in
fact, we met two local guides. Because Amsterdam doesn't allow big-group walking tours in the city center, we had to split into two smaller groups. My group joined up with Max, who led us across the Prinsengracht canal to enjoy a leisurely stroll around the lovely Jordaan neighborhood. He first drew our attention to the pulley hooks at the tops of the canal houses. In the 17th century, merchant goods were stored in the lofts or attics of the houses, and the pulleys were used to hoist goods like cotton or cocoa to the top floor. Today, they are used occasionally to move furniture.
fact, we met two local guides. Because Amsterdam doesn't allow big-group walking tours in the city center, we had to split into two smaller groups. My group joined up with Max, who led us across the Prinsengracht canal to enjoy a leisurely stroll around the lovely Jordaan neighborhood. He first drew our attention to the pulley hooks at the tops of the canal houses. In the 17th century, merchant goods were stored in the lofts or attics of the houses, and the pulleys were used to hoist goods like cotton or cocoa to the top floor. Today, they are used occasionally to move furniture.
Dutch lesson #5: Gracht is the Dutch word for "canal." Prinsengracht means "prince's canal" and is
one of four 17th-century concentric canals that anchor the historical center of Amsterdam. The others are Herengracht (''patricians' canal''), Keizersgracht ("emperor's canal''), and Singelgracht (loosely translated as "surrounding canal" as it is the outermost).
Fun fact: The canal name is also the name of the street that runs along either side of the canal.
one of four 17th-century concentric canals that anchor the historical center of Amsterdam. The others are Herengracht (''patricians' canal''), Keizersgracht ("emperor's canal''), and Singelgracht (loosely translated as "surrounding canal" as it is the outermost).
Fun fact: The canal name is also the name of the street that runs along either side of the canal.
From the Jordaan we had a great view across the canal of the Westerkerk ("Western Church"), which is the largest Protestant church of Holland. Rembrandt is buried somewhere under the church--the exact location of his grave has been lost to the past! Our walk with Max ended in the historic Dam square, which is dominated by the 17th-century Royal Palace, King Willem-Alexander’s official reception palace.
We said good-bye to Max and were free for the rest of the day to explore Amsterdam on our own. But first, several of us had the same idea to go across the square to the de Bijenkorf department store and have lunch in their high-end cafeteria. After lunch, I headed to Centraal Station where I caught a ride across the IJ (Amsterdam's waterfront) on the city's free ferry.
Upon returning to the station, I walked along Prinsengracht in search of a quintessential Dutch cafe.
And I found it: Cafe Papeneiland. I sat down outside at a small table next to the canal and asked the waiter to recommend a local beer, and he said "I'll bring you a surprise." He brought me a Texels Skuumkoppe, and I ordered a slice of the famous Dutch apple pie as well. It was marvelous. After
that, I continued my stroll down Prinsengracht and veered into a cute bookstore, where I bought two books by Dutch authors translated in English. Purchase in hand, I continued to the snug Cafe Chris, where I tried another local beer on the bartender's recommendation. I relaxed outside and "eaves-dropped" on the conversations in Dutch.
And I found it: Cafe Papeneiland. I sat down outside at a small table next to the canal and asked the waiter to recommend a local beer, and he said "I'll bring you a surprise." He brought me a Texels Skuumkoppe, and I ordered a slice of the famous Dutch apple pie as well. It was marvelous. After
that, I continued my stroll down Prinsengracht and veered into a cute bookstore, where I bought two books by Dutch authors translated in English. Purchase in hand, I continued to the snug Cafe Chris, where I tried another local beer on the bartender's recommendation. I relaxed outside and "eaves-dropped" on the conversations in Dutch.
I ended the day with a delicious dinner at a lovely restaurant called Moeders (Dutch for "Mothers"), which I had learned about from a British travel show (sorry, Rick!). The theme is home-cooked comfort, and the walls of the restaurant are covered with photos of patrons' mothers. I had pea soup and veggie hotchpotch and both were fantastic.
Day 10: Art and Cinema
Our last full day of the tour began with a leisurely walk to the Museumplein and the main attraction
of the day: the Rijksmsuem, the national museum of the Netherlands, and home of Rembrandt's masterpieceThe Night Watch, the most-famous painting in the museum's collection. Recently
renovated, the museum itself is gorgeous. We made our way into the sunlit atrium where we met Marianne and Sanne, our museum guides for the morning. We once again broke into two smaller
groups and Sanne led my group in a private tour of the Rembrandt collection.
of the day: the Rijksmsuem, the national museum of the Netherlands, and home of Rembrandt's masterpieceThe Night Watch, the most-famous painting in the museum's collection. Recently
renovated, the museum itself is gorgeous. We made our way into the sunlit atrium where we met Marianne and Sanne, our museum guides for the morning. We once again broke into two smaller
groups and Sanne led my group in a private tour of the Rembrandt collection.
The highlight of our tour was, of course, the colossal The Night Watch. Sanne drew our attention to Rembrandt's trademark drama, his play between light and shadow. He also pointed out the symbolism of many details Rembrandt had hidden in the painting, which was a common motif among the Dutch masters.
Sanne then guided us over to other notable paintings in the museum, including Frans Hals' The Merry Drinker, whose visible paint strokes later inspired the Impressionists.
We also saw several unusual items, including spectacular and amazingly detailed 17th-century
dolls' houses and the royal crest from the HMS Royal Charles, a 17th-century English navy ship.
Finally, we returned to the atrium and said our good-byes to Sanne.
dolls' houses and the royal crest from the HMS Royal Charles, a 17th-century English navy ship.
Finally, we returned to the atrium and said our good-byes to Sanne.
After the guided tour, the rest of the day was free for us to explore Amsterdam on our own. I lingered
in the museum a little longer, discovered some lovely paintings by Dutch artist Jan Toorop, and popped out to the museum's garden to see some Barbara Hepworth sculptures. Then I grabbed lunch in the atrium cafe.
in the museum a little longer, discovered some lovely paintings by Dutch artist Jan Toorop, and popped out to the museum's garden to see some Barbara Hepworth sculptures. Then I grabbed lunch in the atrium cafe.
As for the rest of the afternoon . . . unfortunately, it was a gray and rainy day, and I was feeling a bit down that the trip was coming to an end. But one thing I love about traveling in Europe is imagining I live there, and I decided what better way to feel like a local than to go see a movie! I first stopped to buy an umbrella at the museum gift shop and then walked to the nearby Pathe City theater, where I decided to see the British comedy See How They Run, which was shown in English with Dutch subtitles. Charming!
After the movie, I strolled back to the hotel. Later that evening, we all gathered in the lobby to walk to
the nearby Cafe Americain to say farewell at our last dinner together. It was a bittersweet evening as
we celebrated the birthday of one of our group and talked about all we had seen and done together. And then as the dinner came to an end, Ellen surprised us by giving each of us a souvenir magnet!
the nearby Cafe Americain to say farewell at our last dinner together. It was a bittersweet evening as
we celebrated the birthday of one of our group and talked about all we had seen and done together. And then as the dinner came to an end, Ellen surprised us by giving each of us a souvenir magnet!
The magnet Ellen gave me is of the Rembrandthuis,
the former home & studio of Rembrandt
And then, one last stroll along the canals before the day came to an end.
Day 11: Saying "tot ziens" (good-bye) to new friends
The tour ended the next morning. Many of us had one last breakfast together in the hotel before
saying good-bye. We were all going our separate ways . . . heading to the airport to fly home, or
to the train station to head to a new European destination, or even staying longer in Amsterdam.
It was hard to say good-bye to everyone, but I feel lucky to have traveled with a great group of folks!
saying good-bye. We were all going our separate ways . . . heading to the airport to fly home, or
to the train station to head to a new European destination, or even staying longer in Amsterdam.
It was hard to say good-bye to everyone, but I feel lucky to have traveled with a great group of folks!